Simple Rail Plans
Supplies Needed: 1.5 inch PVC (Thick so it won't break when you grind)
A 10 ft long 2x4
Two 2 ft long piece of scrap wood
2" (or longer) screws, hammer, and drill
Building Instructions: 1. Drill holes in the top part of the pipe (At least 5 holes spaced evenly- and NOT all the way through!)
2. Take the screws and screw the pipe down into the edge of the 2x4
3. Screw the other wood into the base of the 2x4 at each end. This provides lateral support
It looks like this-
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A grinding bar like this works great with plastic plates, but metal will slide fine as well. Metal pipes will last longer, but are harder to drill and more expensive.
Another possibility is to use the metal rails found on top of fences. This will allow you to easily connect several rails making one long rail. All you need to do it cut it down a little bit so that the tapered end overhangs your 2x4 by 2"- 4" and the other end is flush or slightly overhanging. It's also good to secure the rail from underneath to keep the grinding surface nice and smooth. Just use a 1/2" x 4" bolt with a 1/2" nut at each end. Drill a 1/2" hole through the 2x4 and rail about 2" in from the end. As long as you can get your fingers in far enough to get the nut on the bolt (inside the rail) you're set.
If you get really creative, you can attach multiple rails together. This will allow you to practice transfers and intersting variations. All you need to do is build two seperate rails, and attach them together with your screws.
Alternativly, you can go the route that I prefer-- Draw up a picture of the rail you want and take it to the builder. Have all the specs you want ready, including length, pipe width, etc. It may also help if you could cut out a picture from one of the skating magazines out there. My most important suggestion is to make sure the extended base (to prevent it from toppling) is flat. I twisted my ankle and had to sit out for over a month because I landed on one of those supports. Needless to say the hacksaw was brought out and I no longer have that problem! Something like this should run well under $100. (My 10' rail cost $70)
Another Cheap Rail Plan
This rail design works really well- it is extremely stable, and pretty easy to lift. I'd recommend anyone on a budget to try this.
Materials needed:
* 2" wide x 12' long Galvanized Steel Pipe (~$11.00)
2" x 4" x 12' Wood (~$4.00)
2" x 6" x 12' Wood (~$5.00)
(20) 4" common nails (~$1.50)
(or you can use liquid nails all the way down)
(4) 3-4" wood screws ** with 3/8" phillips heads ** (~$.75)
* A steel pole is prefered, but hard to drill- PVC is an alternative, but it's may be too slick to get a good grinding sensation.
Instructions:
(1) Drill 4 -5 holes in the steel pipe that are big enough for your screw's post to pass into, but not so big that the screw's head can pass through it. Space the holes about 2" from each end and aboout 4' intervals. Since I purchased mine from a fencing company, they drilled the holes for me.
(2) On one side only, enlarge the holes with the drill large enough to pass the whole screw head through.
(3) Using the 4" common nails, Take the 2" x 4" x 12' and mount it length wise with the 2" x 6" x 12' making a 'T' shape ( see diagram). I recommend nailing every foot, but more would also improve the rail's durability.
(4) To mount the rail, you need to place it on the top edge of the 2" x 6" (see diagram). Then, using a screwdriver, mark out where the holes of the pipe are. Using the marks as a guide, drill holes to start your screws, or use the common nails to get your screws started. Use the wood screws to mount the pipe.
(5) Rip that bad boy up! Have fun and skate safe.
The latter was designed by cnelson@iag.net Please email with comments or suggestions.
Metal Rail Plans
These are some rad plans for a metal rail. Its sturdy, will last for ever, and is easy to assemble and disassemble. (all materials can be bought at Home Depot or a home supply store and all can be found in the plumbing department.)
Materials (will cost around $50 total)
1. 1 10foot 1-1/4in threaded steel plumbing pipe
2. 3 1foot 1-1/4in threaded steel plumbing pipes
3. 1 1-1/4in steel elbow joint
4. 1 1-1/4in steel T joint
5. 2 1-1/4in steel caps
Directions
Screw the elbow to one end of the 10foot pipe. Screw the top of one of the 1foot pipes to the elbow. Screw the T joint to the bottom of the 1foot pipe. Screw the other two 1foot pipes to both ends of the T joint. Srew the two caps to the ends of the 1foot pipes to keep the rail from wabling.
NOW YOU HAVE A RAD RAIL!!!
I've included a quick picture I drew so you get the idea.
RAMP PLANS
Tired of skating the same old curb? Don't have a ride or five bucks for the skate park? No problem. Homemade, portable wooden ramps are relatively inexpensive and easy to build. A boring driveway or an empty parking lot can be quickly transformed into a shreddable playground with just a few ramps.
Materials Needed:
3/8" X 4' X 8' sheets of plywood
8' 2-by-4s
electric, hand-held or bench saws
handsaw
hammer & nails
electric sander/sandpaper
drafting compass
string & chalk
garden hose
sawhorses
nail punch
ink pen
wood screws
3/8" PVC pipe
push-pin
General Guidelines:
1. Decide on the type of ramp(s) you want to build, sketch out the design and dimensions on paper.
2. Acquire the tools listed below and as much wood as you can get your grubby little hands on
3. Find a work space to use (garage, backyard, etc.) and lay out your supplies. If you're planning to build a fairly large structure (permanent) try to build it on site.
4. For ramps with curved transitions, you will need to use the string-and-compass method shown below.
5. Once you've drawn and cut your templates, next comes the bracing. Shown below are two methods. Both are effective, but the cut-out version, while more work, is a stronger design.
6. Once you've done the framework, you'll most likely need to prep the top piece(s) of the plywood (which must bend to fit the transition without breaking). Do this by propping up the sheet(s)--already cut to size--at a sloping angle and soak with a hose at low pressure for an hour or so. As the wood becomes soaked, apply an increasing amount of weight to the center of the board(s)--using bricks or something similar--until the wood attains the desired curve. Now nail the wood onto the framework's 2-by-4s. If your ramp is to have coping, make sure to leave enough space for it to fit snugly. Always go WITH the grain of the wood while bending and apply the ply!
7. For a smoother transition, sand the bottom edge of the top sheet at an angle flush with the ground. Check for jagged splinters. Sand or paint if desired. Paint will make your ramp faster!
8. Duct tape, airplane or electrical tape or aluminum strips may be added to smooth the transition's bottom edge.
9. Congratulate yourselves on a job well done (?) and start shredding!
String and Compass Method
click here for an illustration of the compass & string method
1. Figure how much transition curve you want (in feet & inches) and how much vert, if any.
2. Tie one end of the string around the push-pin and stick it in the sheet as shown.
3. Holding the string taught, measure out exactly the amount of transition (see step one) and mark this on the string with an ink pen.
4. Tie the drafting compass to the other end of the string and tighten it so the slipknot is right on top of the mark you made.
5. Holding the string taut, swing the compass from the sheet's edge in a quarter-circle, marking the template with the chalk. You may need to move the contraption around to get the desired curve and best use of space!
6. Place sheet on sawhorses and cut out templates carefully.
POWER SAWS ARE FUCKIN' DANGEROUS
Transitional Bracing Methods
click here for an illustration of how to do bracing
Number One: Cut Out
1. You need 3 identical templates. Using a 2-by-4 as a model, trace cut marks holding it flush with curve's edge.
2. Distribute brace/cut marks as evenly as possible.
3. With a jigsaw, cut out all marked spaces just outside of lines.
4. Nail in some bracing 2-by-4s to hold up structure.
5. Cut 2-by-4s to width of ramp.
6. Slide 2-by-4s into cut slats (they should fit snugly).
7. Connect platforms, top platforms, additional bracing or coping.
8. Apply to sheet(s) (see string and compass)--use nail punch to drive nails flush.
Number Two: Side Nail
This method is quicker to build and much less work.
1. After cutting the templates, simply nail in 2-by-4s through the sides at the same angle as the first method, using 3"-4" Flathead nails per side per stud (this woks much better if you have help to hold the 2-by-4s in place).
2. Follow steps 7 and 8 of method one.
Dr. Splinter's Helpful Hints
1. If this is your first ramp, keep it simple. A quarter-pipe or small launch ramp makes a good first project. Then you can add on.
2. Be resourceful. If you don't have access to many tools, try to borrow some. If you can't afford wood, scrounge for some scrap wood.
3. Platform ramps and wood curbs are big again, and they're pretty easy to build. To ensure good design and durability, experiment on paper before you slap something together.
4. If you have nowhere to keep a ramp permanently, consider building a few compact, portable ramps to bring to your favorite weekend spots.
5. Make sure your design is adequately braced under the top sheet, so you don't fall through the ramp (which I've seen happen).
6. For portable ramps, wheels or handles can be attached for easier transport.
7. Two small curved ramps, built to fit flush with the wall, can be spaced apart for a gnarly channel-wall ride set-up!
8. For extra kick on quarter-pipes, "obtain" a slick parking block and place it atop the ramp, for big rock-and-rolls and lapover tricks.
9. Most of all, experiment, try new things and have fun with your ramp. Always wear pads when learning to ride a ramp and don't snake runs in front of your friends. Good Luck!
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